Toward the end of October, Ericeira hosted the Festival do Polvo (Octopus Festival). Most of the restaurants featured different variations of polvo recipes. The timing of this festival was not great, though. Netflix had recently featured an excellent documentary called My Octopus Teacher.
I don’t think Octopuses (not octopi!) are technically a fish or an animal. But My Octopus Teacher showed them to be highly intelligent creatures, seemingly capable of expressing some degree of feelings. They have been on this planet for hundreds of millions of years, existing long before dinosaurs. They didn’t go extinct when the dinosaurs did because they were safe from the asteroid. However, they are not safe from their arch-nemesis, the shark (or man, of course, but that has only been in the last split-second of history). Fortunately, they are not an endangered species.
Thank you, Patti Schererhorn, for allowing me to use your wonderful painting, Mr. Octopus, in my blog. My first inclination was to use Hokusai’s famous painting, The Dream of the Fisherman’s Wife, but then I had second thoughts.
The International Chocolate Festival in Óbidos was the one festival I was really looking forward to, more than the polvo festival. The chocolate festival is typically held at the end of April, but it was one of the earlier events that fell victim to the coronavirus shutdown.
Óbidos is where I first experienced Ginja de Óbidos, the liqueur made from the Ginja Berry and served in a small chocolate cup. I hope that 2021 will see the return of the chocolate festival because I am already looking forward to it. I doubt that anyone has a chocolate polvo recipe, but you never know.
Kicking Down the Cobblestones.. Barefoot
In Ericeira, being a beach town, I often see people walking barefoot along the cobblestone paths. Imagine my surprise when I am came across a Lego embedded among the cobblestones. For those of you who have young children, you have probably stepped on a Lego, barefoot, once or twice. Cobblestones are not the most foot-friendly paths to begin with, but once you embed a Lego, you are asking for trouble.
The obvious question is, How did it get there? This wasn’t just laying there, it was cemented in flush with the cobblestones. Did they finally run out of cobblestones and have to make a quick executive decision? I doubted that, but I posted the picture in an expat Facebook group for kicks.
This particular expat group has always been extremely helpful in solving problems related to immigration, taxes, medical options and real estate. So, where better to ask about a Lego among cobblestones? Surprisingly, this important topic received over three hundred likes. Go figure! Apparently, as one knowledgeable expat pointed out, there is a local artist who goes around and places Legos in cracks, crevices and spaces in walls and paths. Mystery solved! This does go to show that art truly is in the eyes of the beholder.
That Man is Rich Whose Pleasures are the Cheapest – Thoreau
One thing you will notice while walking around Ericeira is how many benches there are. In the U.S. I noticed that there are never enough benches. Part of the reason is that there are so many homeless and they often use the benches to sleep on or make some kind of claim by placing all of their worldly possessions on them. Another reason, I suspect, is because it is unseemly to place a parking meter next to a bench.
I have not seen one homeless person in Ericeira or in Mafra since we’ve been here. I have seen a few in Porto and Lisbon but nothing compared to cities in the US. I’m not sure why that is, because I know for a fact that poverty exists here. I can only conclude that there are more social programs for residents to fall back on. I have asked this question to a few Portuguese folks, but I have not gotten a clear answer. Maybe I will put on my investigative journalist hat and delve into it someday.
On my lazier days my exercise routine consists of getting off the couch, taking a break from writing my blog, walking to the town square or by the overlook, and sitting on a bench. The two obvious differences between sitting on a couch and sitting on a bench are the cushions under my butt and the manly fluff around my feet. Given another few years, I can see myself carrying pillows on my walk and not changing out of my footwear. [Two days after I wrote that, I happened to walk out of my apartment, forgetting to change out of my slippers. As soon as my feet hit the cobblestones, I realized my mistake. Yes, that is a bit scary.]
Of course, I could just stay in my apartment and enjoy the view. Above is the view from my apartment. Granted, it is not the ocean view we will have in our new apartment soon, but it is as much Portugal as is the ocean, and I love it. Still, all things being equal, I will take the ocean view. Or at least a younger version of the above. The below picture is not what you will see hanging on the lines. Obviously, my editor-in-chief (Cathy) is visiting the U.S. currently and is unable to save me from myself.
Regardless, I love the benches. It reminds me of growing up in Miami and watching the old folks down on Miami Beach sitting on benches and doing nothing. I think some of them forgot to change out of their pajamas [now I can relate]. Or maybe that was the style of attire back then, I can’t remember. But I do remember thinking, Please, Lord, kill me before I ever get that old. But here I am, that old (or damn close to it), and I’m finally starting to get it.
I do have friends about my age, here and back in the US, who still hike and bike and go to the gym (you know who you are) and my hat goes off to you. But then I am putting my hat back on to keep my head warm while I sit on the bench. I like my comfort zone, as my wife often reminds me.
Speaking of my better half (and you will find no one who will contradict that), Cathy is back in the US for a few weeks because she was so committed to voting that she flew back to personally deliver our ballots. The grandkids just happened to be there as well, so that worked out perfectly.
As I mentioned, she is not here this time to edit my grammar or censor my thoughts. So, any grammatical errors or objectionable musings are totally my responsibility and cannot be blamed on her.
Knowing that I would be home alone for a few weeks, I anticipated getting a lot of writing and organizing done. Who was I kidding? On my best day I can’t organize the top of my desk. As far as writing goes, being here alone has not cured my chronic case of procrastination. I partly blame Netflix.
No Sour Grapes in Portugal
I just watched a Netflix documentary called Sour Grapes. I highly recommend it. It is about people who have too much money and go to wine auctions and happily spend tens of thousands of dollars on a bottle of wine.
Without going into the details, it is about how so many rich snobs who were swishing and sniffing and tasting their wine, couldn’t actually tell the difference between a $20,000 bottle of Romanée-Conti and a bottle of wine mixed in the kitchen sink (literally).
Even Bill Koch, the billionaire who has had major political influence throughout the years, estimates that he had purchased about four million dollars of counterfeit wine. His wine cellar happens to be bigger than most people’s houses.
So why do I say that there are no sour grapes in Portugal? A couple of reasons. One, the Portuguese drink more wine per capita than any other country in the world. Two, the Portuguese people would laugh at spending too much for a bottle of wine and the inexpensive wine here is excellent.
I followed a Portuguese couple to the wine aisle recently and decided to pick up a bottle of whatever they were having (I’ll have what she’s having). I felt just like Inspector Jacques Clouseau in The Pink Panther, sneaking up behind them.
Anyway, they picked up a bottle for under two euros. And it was damn good. You can spend more, of course. I also picked up a bottle for seven and a half euros, but that was only because I misread the price tag. And it wasn’t any better than the wine for under two euros.
When you finish bingeing whatever you are currently watching on Netflix, watch Sour Grapes (after The Queen’s Gambit, of course). In the meantime, here are a few posters that were on the wall in a wine tasting room we visited in Porto a couple months back. There is a common theme running throughout and I’m thinking we might have wandered into a bordello rather than a wine tasting room. I guess the red velvet door should have been a clue.
While Portugal is famous for fermented grapes, I have not been invited to any wild orgies as depicted in the posters. I think they start after my bedtime anyway.
In the meantime, my editor-in-chief is slacking off her editing duties here and picking apples with the grandkids in Oregon. There is a big fermentation industry in Oregon and there are many new hard cider brands on the market. I think these are destined for apple pies, though.
Cathy will need to get a Covid test before coming back and wear a mask for 18 hours on the long flight. But as long as she can stay safe, it will have been worth it after having been separated from the kids for a full year. That was not part of our expat plan, and that sucks, but Covid has disrupted plans all over the world.
Although the disruption of plans is sad and inconvenient, that pales in comparison to the people who have been hospitalized and the families who have lost loved ones. So please, people, wear a damn mask and keep social distancing. It’s inconvenient but that is our only option right now, at least until after a vaccine is ready.
Would You Please Like Me?
Okay, so this wraps up my pre-election blog. Now I can start on my article for International Living because they actually pay me while you cheapskates aren’t paying me squat! But I will give you a pass if you if you have already voted or if you do so by November 3rd!
As a parting question to the men reading this blog, has begging women to like you ever worked for you? Women, as tempting as it is to get your husbands back to work (while you watch soap operas and eat bonbons), has a man begging for your affection ever increased your desire for him? Regardless of which elderly gentleman you vote for, I guess we will have to wait for the answer to those questions for a few more tiresome days (or weeks?).
Great, as usual, Bob. Keep them coming.
Thank you, David! Hope to see you and Shari soon!
Love your article
Thank you, Elizabeth!
Undoubtedly, reading your blog will be the bright spot in my day. Regardless of Cathy’s absence, your grammar and style are impeccable. I’m also glad to see you’ve resolved the octopi/octopuses/octopodes controversy. (Webster’s agrees with you on your usage.)
Kudos to Cathy for hand-delivering your ballots. Love to see that kind of commitment to a continuing democracy! Looking forward to the next entry!
Thank you, Susan. I am glad to hear that Webster agrees with me. I think Webster and I are about the same age. 😊
Ha! Fantastic ‘ol sport.
Thanks, Jimmy! So glad that you and Betsy are able to enjoy the company of your kids and grandkids in the United Emirates. Your pictures are great. Cute kids!
Once again, a great read! Reading your blogs always puts a smile on my face!
Rita, that puts a smile on my face. What would also put a smile on my face is if I was as good a Portuguese student as you and Rob! It’s a hard language and you guys are doing great!
I love reading your blog!! I also loved getting to see and visit with Cathy! Looks like life there is very good on Cathy . Hope to see you sometime and experience a little of your love for Portugal ! Enjoy
I am so glad that you got to see each other. Looking forward to when we can see you here some day!
Loved seeing the woman hanging her wash outside her apsrtment. It reminds me of when i lived in Lisbon in 1964. I love that some thinhs have stayed the same. Memories.of my youth
Wow! That must have something to be here in 1964. But I guess there are some things that haven’t changed that much. Especially laundry! 🙂
I really loved the queens gambit. sour grapes is anticipated. right after mowing the lawn for the 200th time this year
Hey, Joel! Good to hear from you. Wasn’t Queen’s Gambit great? You will love Sour Grapes, although you are too smart to pay $20,000 for a bottle of wine. You can buy a lot of boxes of wine in Mississippi for that price!
In order of importance..
1. Hooray for Cathy!
2. I havent seen my Oregon kids since a year ago June. Between Jim’s stroke and covid, I just dont see them or me, travelling.
3. Great writing and spelling and information.
4. It must be in the family genes…lack of ‘get up and go’. Although our Mothers weren’t afflicted!
5. I still am envious of your decision to relocate. I talk about it, but dont think I can do it.
6. Continue enjoying your journey and writing about it.
Ronda, I see that you are a list maker! I hope to keep writing about our journey. I hope I don’t get too lazy for that, too! It is work, though. 🙂
I have to agree with you about the wine prices. Two Euro does provide many a fantastic tasting. Our wine cellar is the brown bag used to carry the wine home. When our cellar is empty it must be time to replenish the stock
Haha! It is amazing though, isn’t it?
Always entertaining, Bob! And yes, Jeff and I have both voted. Ridin’ with Biden on the big blue wave. 🤞🤞
Hi Diane! Happy to hear that. I hope you and Jeff are doing well and staying safe!
You are getting so close to the finish line getting into your new apartment! Can’t wait till that happens! Hope Cathy has a safe trip back to your beautiful beach town and hope she brings you something you might be missing from the USA – perhaps a Costco item? Special chocolate bar? I can still remember when we lived in Australia how excited we were after a year there to find a Snicker’s bar in a small corner grocery shop. Meanwhile, enjoy that good cheap wine, and remember to take those slippers off before you wander outside!
I requested some mini Easy Rider Bourbon bottles. We’ll see if she delivers. They do sell Snickers here, my one and only vice. It does satisfy! And it goes well with wine. I meet with the builders on Wednesday to go over a few details. Getting there!
Bob, what a fabulous blog! Thank you for featuring my artwork of Mr. Octopus. I always appreciate a little extra publicity. Be safe, healthy and happy! Patti
Thank you, Patti! When I looked for pictures of octopuses, yours was far and away the best. In my opinion, your painting was the best part of the blog!
Thanks for the read, Bob. It was great seeing Cathy while she was here. We made do with chairs out front ( our back deck is being worked in)in the beautiful sun and had lunch while Gary and I threw question after question at her about life in Portugal. Her visit was a joy and made us lonesome for our new found friendship with you both.
We are looking forward to when we can walk along the cobblestones, sit on benches and of course, leisurely dinners with many bottles of wine. Here’s to 2021!!
Hugs to you!
Nita
I look forward to that day (or week or month)! It made me nostalgic to see a picture of all of you together. Why did it take us all so long to find each other?
Very well written. Enjoying the adventures.
Obrigado, Marc! There is always something to keep me amused here.
I am always so entertained and enchanted by your delicious blogs my friend. Thank you for sharing your sense of humor as you experience life here in Portugal…. we can all appreciate it even more that usual these days!
Finally! An opportunity for me to do my best Joe Pesci impersonation.. “Funny how? I mean, funny like I’m a clown? I amuse you? I make you laugh?”
Are the black ones yours? LOL Nice reading this..taking a moment away from the election news…talk about sour grapes…bitter really…waiting to see if the red states will miraculously turn blue…I adore octopies..there’s one at the aquarium here who I used to visit quite often…fantasizing about breaking the glass with one of those little hammers and tossing him back into the ocean…
No, Laurie, the black panties are not mine. Not Cathy’s either, I’m pretty sure! But I would have bet anyone a walk down the cobblestone path, wearing nothing but them, that Biden had this election in the bag. That is why I don’t gamble anymore.