I tend to get seasick easily and I had heard stories about those who got sick on the way to Berlenga Island. The seas can get very rough, so I called ahead of time to see what we could expect on the day we were planning to go. I was told that the seas were expected to be very calm that day, only about one and a half meters.
Doing the figurin’ and sypherin’ in my non-metric mind, that seemed to be about five feet. I told her that that didn’t sound too smooth to me, but she assured me that it was. Well, I’m not going to let this Siren, who had probably led many Portuguese explorers to their deaths, think of me as an American Gilligan. So, I accepted her challenge.
Our options were to take the fast boat or the slow boat. The fast boat takes the waves a bit more radically, but you get more wind in your face and it’s quick, only about 20 to 25 minutes. The slow boat is a bit smoother but that slow motion can make you more nauseous and you are rocking for longer. The fast boat it is! Our reservations on the S. S. Minnow were all set!
A friend of ours was kind enough to bring along the Portuguese version of Dramamine, called Vomidrine. What a terrible name! It almost made me sick just looking at the box. They should have called it Calmamine or Smoothamine or something like that. I could just hear the cashier over the loudspeaker, “We need a price check on Vomidrine, a price check on Vomidrine, please! Oh, and a cleanup on aisle three!”
So, we took our Vomidrine. Trust me, though, you don’t need that stuff. The trip with the wind in our faces was brief and invigorating. Surprisingly enough, though, the girl in front of me was getting a little queasy. Luís, our trusty tour guide, advised her to look at the horizon, which seemed to work. I was thankful for that because I was sitting directly behind her.
We got to the island bay and disembarked. We were scheduled for a walking tour and then a cave tour, but we had enough time for a quick stroll on the beach first. The next time I might skip the tour and spend the day on the beach because it was so peaceful with its crystal clear, turquoise water and a few topless mermaids.
The historical and ecological tour on Berlenga was good, too. The Ecological Threats Report places Portugal among the countries facing fewest ecological threats until 2050. So, I figure I am safe until I’m 99. I’m a little worried about what’s going to happen when I turn 100, though.
During our tour, we walked to Fortress São João Baptista, which was built in 1502 as a military defense against pirates who kept attacking the monks. Monks were probably an easy mark, unless they were of the Kung-Fu order. In actuality, many of the monks were also warriors back then. They didn’t only make bread and ale.
“Death has had no victory, Grasshopper.”
The ancient, stone staircase down to the fort was steep and had no railing. It never ceases to amaze me in Portugal how so many places you could easily fall to your death. Luís, our trusty tour guide, appeared undaunted. He travels these steps more than once a day, like a Nepalese Sherpa, and has probably grown callous to those he has lost. Might be a good idea to tip in advance, though.
It made me wonder how many years longer I will be able to navigate these harrowing obstacle courses. I mean, I feel healthy enough now but I ain’t getting any younger. Take advantage of a bit of adventure while you still can. Age creeps up on you quickly.
After escaping death down the steep, winding, mountainous path, we walked through the fort, occasionally bonking our heads on low, rock ceilings. In the US, there would be warnings and barriers and waivers to sign. But not in Portugal. The Portuguese are from a sturdy and non-litigious stock.
Thankfully, rather than climbing back up those treacherous steps, we were able to hop on a small boat from down at the fort to tour the water caves.
Back to Peniche
After our fun tour around the caves, it was time to drop us off back at our rendezvous spot to head back to Peniche, from where we launched. After sitting back down on the dock of the bay for a spell, it was time to get back on the S. S. Minnow.
Even though it was a hot and sunny day, the ride back was a bit chilly as it left the island at 18:30 (6:30pm) and the sun had gotten a little lower in the sky. A light jacket would have done the trick but I don’t think of those things until it’s too late.
On the way back we passed a sardine trawler and it was hauling in a ton of sardines. It always amazes me that there are still any fish in the sea. There are a lot of fish farms now but I am very leery of eating fish grown in fish farms. I don’t think they are as healthy for you, swimming around in their own caged filth.
Anyway, a flock of seagulls practically covered the trawler. They sounded very excited, probably in anticipation of a big sardine dinner. But they always sound excited to me. I honestly don’t know if they have a wide range of emotions.
We all waved at the fishermen (didn’t see any fisherwomen on board) and moseyed along until we were accompanied by a pod of dolphins. They travel in a pod because they are social mammals. It is often said that they have a special bond with humans. Maybe it’s because they look like they’re always smiling? They did appear to be following us, though, and smiling.
When my dad was in the Navy during WWII, he and his crewmates would jump in the ocean (if the sea wasn’t too rough) whenever they saw dolphins. They felt safe because the dolphins would protect them from sharks. This is not just an old wives’ tale, apparently. There are many stories of dolphins protecting humans, and baby dolphins, from predator sharks. They ram them with their snout. Sharks hate that, and I have witnessed on many occasions that bullies usually run away when confronted.
The Templar Knights of Convento de Cristo
After Berlenga we headed to the medieval town of Óbidos, which I had written about in an earlier blog. We had a wonderful dinner at Infusion Restaurant there and spent the night at our friends’ beautiful home. The next day we headed out to Tomar, early enough to beat the heat. Tomar is an incredible city but it gets quite hot in the summer. The temperatures can get to feel a bit like Arizona. If you like the heat, you can find incredible deals on real estate. Either way, I would highly recommend checking it out.
Tomar is an amazing city. The main attraction is the Convento de Cristo. It is jaw-dropping experience. So far, it is one of my favorite attractions in Portugal, and that is saying a lot.
Last month, I wrote about the explorers during the Age of Discovery. To put things in perspective, the Age of Discovery started in the 15th century, 300 years in the future! Convento de Cristo was built in 1160 as a defensive castle. It was founded by the Order of Templar Knights and financed by the Church.
There is too much history for me to do justice to here and I encourage you to research the Templar Knights further. There was a Hollywood account of the Templar Knights in The Da Vinci Code, but I wouldn’t use that as my source.
Final Thoughts on Tomar
I want to mention a few interesting tidbits before moving on from historical Tomar. Prince Henry the Navigator, whom I also spoke about in my last blog, restored Tomar as the headquarters for the Order of Christ. He and his wife had living quarters inside the castle. From there he established the use of the latest scientific methods, such as advanced mathematics from the Jews and Arabs, which were used to calculate the position of ships at sea.
While Spain was expelling Jews and stealing their properties, Portugal was protecting them and benefiting from their services. The Convento de Cristo actually houses the oldest synagogue in Portugal and one of the oldest in all of Europe.
It was common throughout Europe for the nobles to take mistresses. However, offspring from the mistresses were generally not acknowledged, centuries before Maury Povich DNA tests publicly exposed the reluctant fathers.
Anyway, the Portuguese nobles often took beautiful Jewish maidens as their mistresses, which was not unique, but they actually recognized their offspring. That was unique for the times. The illegitimate males were accepted as Knights, although they were forced to join the Order of Christ. Conversion of the Jews in Portugal is another interesting story which I will save for another day.
Serra do Socorro and the Napoleonic Wars
Before I tell you about the Serra do Socorro, another place we visited in September, I need to clear up one thing. I know that it sounds like it is Go, Go, Go for us all of the time. But that is far from the truth. Berlenga was a day trip, the Convent was a day trip and Socorro was a half-day trip.
After a couple of days of activities in a row, I just want to be a zombie for a few days. As a matter of fact, I am content to be a zombie most of the time. It can take a fair amount of inertia for me to put my shoes on. Cathy is different in that regard. She loves to go out and do stuff. That can be awfully annoying at times, but it does have its upside. I can come up with a plan and put it in motion, knowing that Cathy will always be on board with it no matter what it is, as long as it means getting in the car and going somewhere.
On yet another beautiful sunny day, we decided to drive up to Serra do Socorro because we had heard that the view was sensational. And it was. There is also a history to it from the early 1800s. It was used to mark the lines of Torres Vedras to defend Lisbon during the Napoleonic Wars.
But the 1800s? Really? That is downright modern here! I know that in the US, anything pre civil war is a major attraction with long lines and hefty entrance fees. Here it is just another sunny day. As a matter of fact, we were the only ones there.
At one point, a van arrived with a few tourists and recreational go-karts. But they couldn’t have cared less about any historical significance. It just happens to be on the biggest elevation around, which is great for downhill speed. That was the only reason they were there.
Personally, with the twists and turns on the narrow road driving up, there is no way you would catch me in an unprotected go-kart at top speeds going down. But then, that’s what they do here in Portugal. I wouldn’t have been surprised if I had seen Luís driving the van.
Looking Forward to a New Book Released Today
A riveting book, filled with historical significance and political intrigue, gets released today. No, not Woodward’s Rage. Rather, Ken Follett’s The Evening and the Morning. For all of you Follett fans, and especially fans of the Pillars of the Earth, this is a prequel to the Kingsbridge trilogy and starts off in the year 997.
What I love about this trilogy, now a quadrilogy, are the stark differences between the old world and the new world during most of the second millennium. The new world doesn’t yet know what is about to hit them once the explorers reach their shores.
Follett brings to life the same theme of good versus evil, and some of the grays in between (although he likes things in black and white) that the world has faced since Adam and Eve. What has changed is that there are now 7,500 varieties of apples in the world, instead of the one from which Adam and Eve ate, and a population of 7,500,000,000, instead of just the two of them.
Farewell to Summer
I hope that you enjoy the last of your summer and that you stay safe from the troubles the world throws our way, of which there have been many recently. By studying history, we see that natural disasters, pandemics and conflicts have plagued mankind since the beginning of time.
The fact that humanity has always faced difficulties doesn’t lessen the struggles we face today. However, it makes one wonder whether Earth is our final destination. I don’t mean in an Elon Musk “blasting off to Mars” sort of way, but in a realm that goes beyond the limitations of our earthly bodies. Anyway, just something to ruminate on until next time. Your thoughts?
Bob, your writing has always and still is majestic, interesting, and wordy. “His Majesty is a pretty nice boy and certainly has a lot to say”. I know if you decided to, with your wit and knowledge you could start a tour company (for English speaking tourists) and be more than successful, maybe legendary. Being legendary is no small task. Anyway, I don’t want to be accused of being “too wordy” so I’ll end by saying great story and great pictures. Please end this COVID bullshit so I can come visit.
Obrigado, amigo! I will speed up my vaccine timeline now that I know that you and Joy will be visiting! 🙂
Excellent!
Glad that you enjoyed it, Jimmy! So many great places to explore!
Another enjoyable piece, Bob. Your photos really enhance your writing. Bravo to Cathy for lighting the wick on some of your travels. Like yourself, I’d miss the railings and warnings we’re comforted with here in the States … Our final destination? Geez. Given freedom, humans will likely reach beyond today’s imagination.
Final destination yet to be determined, cosmically speaking.
Always love to read your blog Bob!! You are informative and funny!! You open a wonderful window to yours and Cathy’s experiences!
I thank you and hope to visit. You’re going to have a business with all of us coming to visit!!
So much for a more peaceful lifestyle 🥴
Hi Molly! I do have a slight apprehension about everyone coming at once as soon as the barriers are lifted. But we’ll figure it out. Would love to see you!
Another great adventure. Sounds beautiful there.
There are many beautiful places to see in this small country. It is also a great launching pad from which to visit other European countries, but not this year.
Hi Bob,
Thank you for the Escapism lit today!
What a gift you have.
Blessings.
Sally
Btw- Cathy does NOT age!!!!💕😁
We all need a bit of escapism from time to time, right? Especially these days. Maybe Cathy has found the fountain of youth in Portugal and is keeping its location secret from me. Hmm..
Great instalment of your blog! I felt like I was traveling along with you and Cathy. One thing’s for sure though – I could never do those stairs!
We’ve been stuck indoors in Vancouver, trying to escape the thick smoke that has traveled up from CA, OR and Wa. It’s so refreshing to read about road trips to beautiful places. Keep the travelogues coming!
The stairs can be a challenge at times. Many of the older buildings don’t have elevators, either. I am very saddened by the fires on the west coast. The middle of Portugal had horrible fires in 2017, before we arrived. 66 people died and over 200 people were injured.
Such another great read Bob. As I know all too well your SeaSick-tendency. I had to laugh at the thought of you heading out to sea in a ‘fast-boat’ … Great pix & historical references as always. El Grito is upon me here in Mexico ( Mx. Independence Day(s) .. ) nos vemos pronto amigo
PS. Your story of your Dad in Navy ww2 about the dolphins & sharks my father always used to talk about, and he is 96 and I was just talking with him about that — my dad was US Navy South Pacific 1941 -1946 … They jumped off their ‘Destroyers’ just for kicks & a swim With Sharks & Dolphins & big knives just in case … Great post
Yes, you know I’m not lying! You were there when I was turning a little green on our last fishing expedition in Miami. I also remember, about 50 years ago (where has the time gone?) when you and I were going to hop a merchant vessel and sail to Japan. But you got a call, in the nick of time, with an offer for a job as a radio DJ. Changed the course of history, thank God!
PS. My brother sat our dad down for a recorded interview before he died so that we could get some of his stories which he had never told us before. Great stuff! God bless your dad!
Your article brought back some good memories of when I went camping at the Berlengas over 25 years ago! Boy I could have used some of that Vomidrine stuff on the boat ride there. Coming back it was a breeze. I spent many summers of my youth in a town nearby called Baleal. Did you happen to do any sightseeing in or close to Peniche. Cheers!
So, maybe it was the Vomidrine after all that made everything okay! Camping is shut down since the coronavirus, but that sounds like fun.
What amazing adventures with delightful friends…..and add the blessing of beautiful days and we’ve got another winner!! To top it off, Bob, you added your talents once again, sharing your very engaging take on every element of each adventure….. You are a blessing!
That was so much fun! Next time, bathing suits. Although, I kinda noticed that not everyone was wearing them.
Bob,
You’re the most entertaining tour guide ever. I had an out-loud chuckle at each paragraph while admiring the beauty and history of your landmarks. I imagine you have a whole new perspective of history while living in a different country .
Keep on Travelin!
Yes, a totally new perspective on history. My imagination runs wild. When you visit we will try to make it even more entertaining for you!
Ahhh, surf, sardines, seagulls, and dolphins…..life along coastal Portugal appears magnificent! You will have so many fabulous side trips to recommend that we will most likely need 2-3 trips to pack it all in. Thanks for planting so many seeds in my mind for further exploring. And thanks for having a couple of photos of you and Cathy in this issue. We miss seeing your faces!!!
I would say an annual trip, anyway. And more than a few days. So many great places to see. You should start making a list. The pictures of us were because you ordered them! 😊
I really enjoyed this chapter. And great pictures. What a beautiful blue sky in Serra do Socorro! You and Cathy made a great choice in Portugal; and your timing was so fortunate.
Regarding thoughts on destination, I think the answer could be both. On the one hand, as conscious beings, it seems we can go ‘far’. On the other, I find of interest something Stephen Hawking said (paraphrasing), that humans are causing so much damage to earth, we will have to leave, and we will have the science to do so.
Yes, timing is everything. And it is usually just dumb luck, which was the case with our move here. I hear stories almost daily of people whose plans have been thwarted. The queue to get into Portugal has grown significantly, with Consulate appointments being pushed a year or more out in some cases. Regarding the latter subject, science does seem close to having the tools to take people to Mars. However, I am skeptical of Elon Musk’s lofty projections. About post-mortem travel, though, I wonder whether we carry on as individual souls or we merge into some collective body. Science doesn’t have an answer for that.