“I came, I saw, I conquered” was our official motto for our wondrous, two-week trip to Italy. Cathy and Sharie actually bought t-shirts with that quote printed on them. The truth is that we easily surrendered to lots of amazing food and wine, for which Italy is famous.
Our first destination was Rome, where we had an Airbnb right around the corner from the Trevi Fountain, made famous from the movie, Three Coins in a Fountain.
We just missed, by a week, many of the world leaders throwing their coins in the fountain to wrap up their G20 Summit. Probably taxpayers’ coins, as that seems to be the one thing that is the same in every country.
Although our apartment was just around the corner from the fountain, there were pizza and gelato shops calling from almost every step. We answered as often as we could, while others were put on hold.
In Rome, as in many of the places we visited, there were people on the streets hawking their goods. When we sat down to dinner on the first night, a man came to sell us roses for the ladies. We politely declined but he gave them each a rose anyway, for free. I murmured, “This isn’t going to end well”. A few seconds later, he came back asking us guys for a donation for the roses, to which the ladies obliged.
One of the highlights of Rome was the Sistine Chapel. Sharie made a friend on the plane (which is not an uncommon occurrence for both David and Sharie) who happened to work at the Chapel. She ended up giving all four of us tickets into the Sistine Chapel. Everywhere you turned was an incredible sight. It was rather crowded but only a fraction of the crowds that you would see in the summer.
The opulence was unimaginable. I couldn’t help but think what Jesus would have thought if he were walking these halls. Would he have thought, “Hmm, not too shabby”?
I was wearing my cap into the hall, which I had purchased on my last trip to Italy, but I was asked to remove it. However, there was a procession of clergymen who were all wearing fancy hats. Why was I singled out?
In some religions it is disrespectful to wear a head covering. Others consider it disrespectful not to wear one. Religion is confusing. Regardless, it was an amazing experience, and I was very happy to finally see what all the fuss was about.
The Pantheon was also an amazing structure in Rome. It is the oldest unreinforced concrete dome in the world, a couple of thousand years old. Hard to believe that it is still standing. I was a little paranoid, thinking what if it is just my luck that today is the day it collapses?
The weather cooperated with us during most of the trip. There was only one day that we were rained out. That was in Milan when we had to cancel our Segway reservation. Still, November is a great month to travel in Europe as the crowds are significantly less than the summer. I can’t imagine how packed some of these destinations must be in the summer. There are warnings everywhere about pickpockets, and I have a couple of friends who this has happened to, but we were not packed so tightly that it was a problem.
Traveling in Europe
One of the big pluses about living in Portugal is how easy it is to visit other countries in Europe. The time factor, jetlag and costs are much easier to handle. We didn’t cut corners too much along the way and it ended up costing somewhere between 200€ to 220 € per day ($225-$250). That included nice Airbnbs, lots of good food and wine, airfare, trains, buses and our wonderful dog sitters, Laura and Pedro.
That’s not too bad for what was truly a first-class vacation. In the meantime, the dollar has been doing great against the euro lately, so dollars are going further in Europe than they have since Covid began.
Rome to Siena
After Rome, we took a bus to Siena. Practically everywhere we went in Italy, we had to show our Covid vaccination pass in buses, trains and restaurants. They can be digital or a printout. David and Shari had printouts while Cathy and I used the digital. However, while boarding the bus, our digital was not scanning properly and he wasn’t going to allow us on.
Fortunately, I had paper copies in my bag that worked just fine. David’s paper copy was getting used so much that it was beginning to have a little trouble in the scanning department as well. So, it is good to have backups for anyone planning a European vacation. Most restaurants just wanted to see that we had one had they didn’t care to scan it. One waiter said, I’m not a cop.
Cathy and I had been to Siena and Florence three years ago with our friends, Steven and Joy, and enjoyed ourselves very much. We liked Siena more than Florence so we skipped Florence this time and we felt happy to be back in Siena. We remembered Florence being very crowded last time, even in October.
Our apartment in Siena was very nice and our hostess was the best. Some of the reviews said that it was a lovely apartment in a great location but had too many steps up to the fourth floor. However, the owner put in an elevator a few months ago, which must have been quite expensive. Although, it was the smallest, slowest elevator I’ve ever been in and as you can see, it is built for one person and a bag or two people and no bags, or just bags!
Speaking of closeness, one big difference between Portugal and Italy is PDA, public displays of affection. You rarely see this in Portugal, but you do see people hugging and smooching all over Italy, whether in public squares or public transportation.
By the way, while on the subject of public transportation, when you see ixat on an airport door, it is not Italian for exit. It is taxi when you are looking at it from the wrong side of the door.
Day trip from Siena to Civita
We rented a car for one day to take a day trip to Civita and Orvieto. Civita is too incredible for me to describe well enough to do it justice. It is called “The Dying Town” because it has been eroding away for centuries. Only a handful of people actually live there anymore, they just come in to work in the shops and restaurants.
Civita was founded 2,500 years ago and I am always astounded how laborious building these stone structures must have been back then.
And then on to Orvieto
Orvieto was our next stop after Civita. We had a memorable meal consisting of Tagliolini with Wild Boar Sauce (tasted way better than it sounds), Vegetable Soup with Curry and Spices, Gruyere and Avocado Salad, and desserts of Tirimisu, Pana Cotta with Berry Sauce, Apple Tart, and Orvieto Cookies dunked in Tangy Dessert Wine. We shared the desserts. And there was more delicious wine, of course.
While in Orvieto, we stepped into a church (we passed along the way). Inside the church was a giant mural of naked people. This is where I had wished I had a tour guide, or an invitation to the next service.
Cinque Terre
From Siena, we took a train to Cinque Terre. Cinque Terre is a hilly, steep coastline on the Italian Riviera and consists of the five beautiful hillside towns; Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore, which can be reached by train or hiking. On our first night we watched a beautiful sunset along with other visitors.
Monterosso is divided into old and new. There is a nice boardwalk along the beach. I am sure the beach is delightful in the summertime but in November there was only one person sitting on the beach in a bathing suit.
We stayed in Vernazza and hiked to Monterosso, a grueling two-hour hike (don’t let the smiling faces fool you) with magnificent views. I am astounded that there are no strong warnings about how treacherous the walk is. In the USA, someone would be swamped with lawsuits, I am sure!
At one point, I slipped on a rock and fell into the stream and floated a mile downstream. Okay, I’m lying about floating downstream, but Cathy and Sharie, who were documenting every step of the way on their cameras, somehow missed the shot of the day. But it did happen, and it was actually kind of refreshing coming toward the end of this sweaty hike. How is that for a silver lining?
There were some daunting moments on this trail. Although, we did see one well-dressed German on the trail in his fancy, expensive brogues. He must not have gotten the memo and I am curious to know if he fell into any stream or maybe over the cliff. All I know is that we never saw him again. Cathy just reminded me that he was spotted again. I must have been face down in the stream at the time.
Cinque Terre was pretty dead this time of year and on our first night we took a short train ride into Monterosso for dinner. Coming back to Vernazza, we missed our stop and ended up in Manarola. Actually, the train missed the stop so we hopped on another one to backtrack. The ticket collector, who we hadn’t seen on previous rides, checked our tickets on this one and wanted to fine us 50€ each. He ended up not fining us but charging us for tickets back to Vernazza.
The Floating City of Venice
We left picturesque, sleepy Cinque Terre for vibrant Venice. I think Venice was my favorite place during this visit. I loved the canals and boats and unique history. It is very easy to get lost here because there are so many bridges and crooked streets along the waterways. And I loved that no vehicles are allowed. I even saw a DHL boat on the canal, which I wish I had gotten a picture of. We took a two-hour walking tour and our tour guide was terrific.
Here is a couple on a gondola in Venice. I think the man is proposing and the woman on her phone is saying, “Wait until I finish posting on Facebook.”
Off to Futuristic Milan
As I mentioned earlier, we had a rainy day in Milan. While that forced us to cancel our Segway tour, we still braved the weather to walk around this futuristic city. After seeing so many ancient architecture all across Italy, Milan felt like another country altogether.
It is a happening city and if you enjoy big cities, you will absolutely love Milan. It might have been the weather or it might have been that I was missing our dog, Foxy, but I was a bit intimidated by Milan. It is a beautiful, modern city, though, and I think the Segway tour would have been beneficial. It is too big a city to walk.
There are ancient sites in Milan, and many glorious statues, some by Leonardo da Vinci, that we weren’t able to visit due to lack of time. But we did see the Duomo di Milano, which has been under construction since the 12th century.
Across the street from that was the oldest shopping mall in the world, the Galleria, which we ducked into to get out of the rain. It was a very high-end shopping mall with beautiful models posing throughout.
A Lovely Day on Lake Como
On our second full day in Milan we took the train to Lake Como. Without a doubt, that was the most beautiful scenery of the trip. It was a chilly day out on the ferry, but invigorating and stunning. We got some amazing food there, too. The shrimp soup was to die for. George and Amal Clooney own a home somewhere on the Lake but we didn’t see them anywhere. Maybe they were snuggling up in front of a cozy fireplace.
Some people warned us that two weeks is too short of time to visit all of the destinations we visited. There is some truth to that. However, I wouldn’t have had it any other way. It was like having a variety of tastes. Small portions of a variety of foods are called tapas in Portugal or cicchetti, stuzzichini or spuntini in various parts of Italy. It was something like that.
Speaking of food, I think it is impossible to get a bad meal in Italy. Everything is so flavorful and authentic, even in the airport. Here is a picture of a pizza bar at the Milan airport. Also, the Milan airport is very efficient. Some airports are a nightmare but I was very impressed with the smoothness of the airport in Milan.
Differences Between Italy and Portugal
Remember, when I make comparisons between Italy and Portugal, they are only my opinions. They are not absolutes.
The seafood seems to be better in Portugal but food in general is better in Italy. More flavorings and variety. There must be hundreds of different kinds of pasta and sauces.
In movies you see a lot of people in Italy carrying bread, but I do think nobody can touch the bread in Portugal.
The network of trains is much better in Italy (here’s a monitor on one of our trains of us traveling at over 180mph) but the highways are better in Portugal. And I feel safer crossing the street in Portugal than I did in Italy.
Portugal has more pastry shops and Italy has more gelato shops, and the gelato is better in Italy, creamier and more creative variety of flavors.
Pizza is much better in Italy, as to be expected. Again, there must be hundreds of variations.
In Portugal, restaurants bring olives and bread and cheese to the table. You can refuse it and not be charged. In Italy, many restaurants have a cover charge, often around 3€ per person and is charged on top of your bill no matter what. We asked one waiter what the cover charge meant and he pointed to the bread and tablecloth. Also, some restaurants charge tax and others don’t. Portuguese restaurants never add tax to your bill.
Fashion is more of a thing in Italy. I found myself trying not to stare at the fashionable women walking and sitting everywhere. I didn’t try too hard, though.
I think politeness is more of a priority in Portugal. I wouldn’t say that people were impolite in Italy, but I did notice a difference.
I thought people parked crazily in Portugal but Italy wins that hands down. There are more tiny smart cars in Italy than in Portugal, probably because of the way they park.
The Italian language is more melodic to my ears than the Portuguese language and maybe easier to learn, but I think that the Portuguese people are more tolerant toward English speakers than Italians are.
Overall, as amazing and wonderful as our trip to Italy was, and I am sure to visit again, I find Portugal to be more livable. I love how the ocean seems to run through the veins of the Portuguese people, and how welcoming they are (even if a bit suspicious) of visitors and foreigners.
Overall, it was a near-perfect vacation. David Bantz, with his organizational skills and boundless energy, and Sharie Korter, with her big heart and cheerful attitude, were excellent travel companions.
I am skipping a lot of details and pictures because my head is hurting just trying to remember all the things we saw and did. Not only does my head hurt, but a lot of things hurt more as you get older. That is why it is important to travel and experience as much as you can while you are young. But if you’re not young, do it anyway!
Arrivederci!
What a perfect description of an amazing trip. So glad we got to have you join us, and for you to summarize the experience so wonderfully.
Thanks, David! A good time was had by all!
Thanks for sharing your adventures. Enjoyed the comparison of my two favorite European countries. I was born in Portugal and hope to spend more time there in the near future! Enjoy all it has to offer. Bem-vindos a Portugal.
Obrigado, Maria! My two favorite European countries as well, but I know that we made the right choice when becoming residents of Portugal.
OMG my dear friends and traveling partners! Bob, you captured our inspiring adventure so magnificently! …..Italy is amazing for sure…. and experiencing it with such amazing travel partners has been an incomparable gift I will cherish forever!
Italy definitely lived up to our highest expectations. So glad we could share the adventure (not to mention the great food and wine) with you and David! So glad we didn’t do it in the summer.
Sounds like a fabulous trip. I’m envious that you were able to enjoy so much excellent food.
Have a Happy Thanksgiving!
Happy Thanksgiving to you too, Ronda!
Sounded fantastic, Bob. Crossing the street in Italy … yes, and also the challenge of meeting other cars at an intersection when you’re driving, both hair-raising. Much love to you both.
It really was a fantastic couple of weeks. And the food was amazing!
Wow, you gave a great narrative on an amazing trip. Makes me want to go to Italy even more now!!
Rita, you and Rob would love it! Start planning now.
It seems you can tell a good story in whatever country you find yourself. You should be getting paid for it, by someone!
Happy Thanksgiving to you both.
I will send you a link to my PayPal account. 😊 Happy Thanksgiving to you and Shelley.
Hah…. I walked right into that one!
Fantastic travelogue, Bob! Your trip brought back so many great memories from our time In Italy. Thanks so much!
And soon you and Karen will have great memories from your time in Portugal. Getting closer!
Your photos are magnificent and your descriptions are spot on. I love Italy and am so glad you got to see it, feel it, taste it! Thanks for noticing this edition kicked from our e-mail server. They always go to our spam, but this one didn’t even to that. I love reading your blog, and don’t want to miss any! Thanks!
Yeah, I am having problems with my blogs’ automatic emails. One of these days I should look into that! In the meantime, can you believe that I actually lost a few pounds while I was in Italy? I don’t know if it was all the walking or lugging the bag around, or maybe the wine? I know it wasn’t Covid because I am still healthy, but I think that I might wait for this latest variant to pass before I do any more traveling. I am vaccinated and boosted, though!
It was a pleasure to join you all on such a beautiful journey. My mouth was watering for both the food and wine 🍷. You have become quite the photographer, capturing some amazing majestic sites, even if it’s just an iPhone ! Lol., and as always, I chuckled the whole read through.
Thanks for the tour!
Wishing you and family a happy and healthy holiday!
Thank you, Lynda! It’s hard not to be a foodie in Italy. And the wine went down easy. My pictures are from my Samsung Galaxy S20. They’re not the best, but with all the great subject matter, I guess they’re not the worst, either. Happy holidays to you and your beautiful family also, and please wish your dad a happy 100th birthday! Wow!
Welcome to my blog! Happy to hear that you are starting the process. Let the adventure begin!
What a delightful blog! I hope more posts are on their way and all is well for Bob and Cathy.